So, paragliding yesterday did something to my sinuses.   I’m all stuffed up and it sucks.

When I woke up this morning I was really 50/50 on whether I was going out on an adventure or just sleep in and hang out in town doing nothing.

The planned adventure for today was a boat trip across Lake Ohrid to St Naum on the other side where there’s a little village and a monastery.

It’s easily the number one thing everyone does when they come here so it seemed kinda silly to miss out on it since this was my last day in Ohrid.

Having said that, I woke up at 8am and really gave thought about just going back to sleep but then I summoned some strength and got my ass out of bed.

The boat tours all start at 10am and I was out the door at 9am.   Just enough time to quickly buy a ticket and quickly grab some breakfast.

Now, when I say quickly, I mean quickly.   Today’s breakfast was at a much faster pace than yesterday’s “no care in the world” leisurely pace.

I was in and out of that restaurant so quick your head would spin.

At just before 10am I walked over to the docks and boarded my cruise.

Sailing on Lake Ohrid

I sat in my chair on the top deck of the boat among 100 other travelers.   This mob was going on a boat ride.

There’s actually a handful of these big boats that make the daily trip for 15€ and a few smaller 15 seater boats that do the same trip for 25€.

Initially I was leaning towards a smaller boat because it wouldn’t be so crowded but then I realized all the boats are going to the same destination anyway so it’s going to be crowded there no matter how you go.

I did make one mistake though.

When reading up on the tours online, people kept saying “make sure you go on a tour that stops at the Bay of Bones”.

With my last minute rushed purchase of a ticket at the docks this morning I neglected to ask that vital question and, sure enough, I got on the boat that just passed by the archaeological site of prehistoric dwellings.

Some boats will stop there for a half hour while ones like mine just pass it so there’s more time in St Naum.

That amount of time at St Naum, by the way, was 3 1/2 hours.

St Naum

It took 90 minutes to get down there so we arrived at 11:30.   The return trip wasn’t until 3pm.

That was 3 1/2 hours of walking around a tiny, and I mean tiny, little village.

Way too much time.

I toured the monastery, explored the village, and had some lunch.

Two hours to kill.

I walked back and forth and back and forth.   Then, I just kind of sat in a shady spot people watching.

There was a wedding reception in the middle of it all which was kind of cool.   All these people dressed in fancy dresses and suits passing by others in skimpy bikinis.

Eventually 3pm rolled around and by 4:30 we were back in Ohrid.

In retrospective, I probably should have just hung out in town and done nothing.   I mean, it was essentially what I did anyway but I didn’t have the freedom to come and go.

A big fish

I went back to the little family run restaurant I went to last night to, once again, get some fresh fish.

Today, my server recommended the baby carp (yup, I had the “baby shark” tune in my head instantly too) with a warning that I had to watch out for the bones.

Okay, then.

Well, if she’s recommending it, I’m getting it.

After getting a couple medium sized fish yesterday, what arrived on my plate was humongous.

How the hell was I gonna eat this?

What she said about the bones was true, they didn’t just come out in one nice scale like the fish I had last night.

Nope, I had to take a chunk of fish off the filet and then carefully pick out the bones.

I was really having to work for my meal tonight!

Oh, and I attracted seemingly every bee in the city.   I swear at one point I had 6 bees hovering around my food.

Try deboning fish and eating while wildly waving your hands to shoo the bees away, it ain’t easy!

My server saw my predicament and came up with an on the spot solution.   She brought out an ashtray filled with coffee grounds and lit it on fire.   Apparently the smell or smoke keeps the bees at bay.

The things you learn while traveling…

All in all, another great meal and more great service.

I was a happy man.

An early night

I was also a sick man.

On the 20 minute walk back from the restaurant I suddenly became very tired.   I think the blocked sinuses just ran me down so much today.

I was back at the hostel at 6:30 and I just wanted to crash.   I was legit ready for bed.

It had been a long day and exerting myself out in the sun when I’m not 100% is, in hindsight, probably a stupid thing to do.

I also have a really early morning tomorrow and a long travel day into Albania.

From there, though, I have a week in Albania and not alot planned which means I can take it easy and get back to 100%.

See ya tomorrow…

Balkan Trip 2023, Trip Journal, Ohrid, North Macedonia
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